A walk through history at the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum, Bombay

I was heading back to Bombay after a gap of about 5years and this time I had no agenda at all. I had informed about 4-5 folks that I am coming there, and hoped to meet them if possible. I knew I wanted to spend time and catch up with a friend who had moved there 3years ago and of course explore some parts that I had not explored earlier. 

We spent the weekend generally hanging out, visiting a mall, doing some shopping [ she convinced a non shopper such as moi to also shop] and playing with their 7yr old bunny boy.. I had also made plans to catch up with a few [among the 4-5] for lunch or coffee. I knew I had a few hours and my friend mentioned the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum. I had been to the Prince Wales museum [Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya,] few years back, but this one I hadn't heard of. Did some research on the net and discovered it was in Byculla East. If the pictures and blogs I read were anything to go by, the museum promised to be magnificent visit and I headed out towards the place. 

The museum name board..

The elephant from the Elephant Islands 

The Museum in all its glory.

 Artists at work, semi precious stones, silver jug, Ganjifa is an ancient Indian card game, originally played with a set of 120 cards and asnake etched out of soap stone

 Men from Different communities on display

 Coppersmith at work

 Shell Carving 

 Beautiful peacocks at the bottom of a heavy ceramic vase.

 

The grand place that greets you as you walk into the museum..

The majestic statues and bust that sit in the museum centre.

One of the beautiful sculptures..

 And he stands tall...

 Ornate staircase leading to the top floor

 The entire upstairs.. was completely empty when i went.. was such a silent space..

The Tower of Silence

The structure standing outside, on the side

Took me a good hour to reach the museum, the journey was quite a revelation. I realised Bombay folks had taken to radio cabs like fish to water and many had stopped commuting by train. Traffic was bad, and not to mention increase in number of vehicles. The cabbie took me via the Bandra Sea link which was beautiful, quite a sight. 

Anyways, as I walked into the museum campus, I noticed there was a ticket counter with a board saying "zoo". I was surprised to see that, and anyways made my way towards the museum. On the side sat the majestic elephant [it is a Basalt elephant sculpture from Elephanta Island] with a canon of sorts guarding it. There was a guy sitting next to it, but he very sweetly got up and walked aside when he saw me position my camera for a capture. After buying an entry ticket for Rs10 [reminded me of the ticket at Albert Museum in Jaipur, same price], I made my way inside. There was no major security checks, only thing the staff inside told me was to not speak on the phone while inside. 

Also known as the Victoria and Albert Museum, this museum was built back in 1872 and is a treasure house of anything related to history- Historical artefacts  paintings, pots, pans, photographs, and so much more from across the country. What made the visit interesting were the information cards near the exhibits. They were in both Hindi & English and quite detailed. The displays themselves had boards in both languages and they were all neat and organised.  The instant you step inside, you are in awe of the architecture of the place. It was like a palace, simply wow.I must have spent close to two hours here, walking the length of the museum, exploring the two floors. 

As you head towards the staircase you can't help but notice the cluster of sculptures that stand tall. The man standing tall is David Sassoon – opium baron, trader and architect of Colonial Bombay. There are quite a few buildings around the city named after him- David Sassoon Library & Reading Room at Kalaghoda. Apart from Sasoon the other statues belong to Prince Albert who stands just behind him. There are two women who are on either side of the Prince, did not notice their names though.  

While the ground floor was filled with artefacts and pieces from across the country, the top floor showcased historic maps, model ships, models of Bombay life in the 19th and 20th centuries. the one fascinating exhibit was the Towers of Silence.. I have not heard of it and so it had me enthralled. I learnt that it  is where the bodies of Parsis or Zorashtrians are laid after they die. It’s an open well of sorts, and vultures eat the remains of the departed.

As I walked out towards the Museum Shop, I spotted the tall tower on the side of the museum. The museum shop has a small but cool collection of items that you could purchase, from bookmarks to t-shirts, mugs, posters, games, coasters and so on. 

Interesting insights.. [source http://www.mumbai.org.uk/museums/victoria-albert-museum.html]


History

The Victoria and Albert Museum was originally established in 1855 in Mumbai. During this time, the museum was used as a treasure house of the decorative and industrial arts. The thought of establishing a museum was suggested by a collector known as Dr. Buist, when the India was under the control of British East India Company. Dr. Ramkrishna Vitthal Lad, also known as Dr. Bhau planned the construction of the museum with an amount of Rs. 6000. After a committee was formed, the foundation for building the museum was laid down in 1862. The construction was complete only in 1871 and the museum was opened in 1872. The museum is presently known as 'Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum'. It was renamed after Dr Bhau Daji Lad because of his dedication to the museum.

Architecture

The initial appearance of the Victoria and Albert Museum had a gloomy look but now, after the various contributions put forth by the 'Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), the museum has improved in its appearance. The museum is adorned with gold ornamentations on the corners of the walls, railings and ceilings. The blue-painted pillars add magnificence to the museum's look. The entire construction of the museum is inspired by the Greco-Roman style of architecture. Apart from the arches that are elegantly designed and the heavy glass cases, the high painted ceilings of the museum is also a work of expertise. The 'Victoria Gardens' or 'Rani Jijamata Udyan', serves as a backdrop for this ancient museum.

DR. BHAU DAJI LAD MUSEUM

91 A, Rani Baug, 

Veer Mata Jijbai Bhonsle Udyan,

Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Marg, 

Byculla East, 

Mumbai, Maharashtra 400027.

India.

Phone:

+91-22-23731234

+91-22-65560394

Skywatch Friday...Few steps below-- Agrasen ki Baoli or Ugrasen Ki Baoli, Delhi

I had been fascinated by the Step wells since I laid eyes on the very 1st one, in Karnata- Hulikere. Since then, I have been reading about these wells, the architecture and trying to visit one in the destination I hit. I spotted one in Hampi- the Pushkarni, inside the Royal Enclosures. And then, last December when i was in Delhi, I managed to convince mom and uncle to come with me as i went searching for the Agarsen or Ugrasen Ki Baoli near Connaught Place, a short walk from Jantar Mantar.   

We drove around a bit, and finally located Hailey Road where the Baoli was situated. Parked the car few streets away and began walking down. I was excited, mom was just tagging along and uncle was curious to see what this hidden treasure in his city was. On our left, the wall had a huge vibrant Ganesha mural, that led to a demon face, an angel or devil and a cross on rosary beads.... fascinating!! 

A few steps up and we spotted the traditional ASI board that said  Agrasen ki Baoli  or Ugrasen ki Baoli  is a 60-meter long and 15-meter wide historical step well.   Even though there are no records of who actually built this well, legend has it that it was King Agrasen who must have built this well during the Mahabharatha epic era. It was repaied and rebuilt in the 14th century by the Agarwal community which once again traces its origin to Maharaja Agrasen.

The first thing I noticed was a dilapidated tomb of sorts on the right side, there were a bunch of chairs piled up and a dog sleeping. And then as I turned left, I was left speechless.. 

It is one among the many in Delhi. During rainy season or the monsoons, nearly all the 103 steps are submerged in water. Since it was winter, we were able to see far below. There are three levels, and each level is lined with arched niches on both the sides.  The stone walls of the well are stark yet beautiful, forming a 60 x 15 meter rectangle structures.. The bricks are all in good shape, just that the place is now inhabited by pigeons. Situated in the midst of towering concrete structures, it sure was a visual treat. I dreamt of how the place must be filled with water and how the Kings & Queens used it back in the days. Hoping to visit the others during my subsequent trips to Delhi. 

For more beautiful skies, visit Skywatch Friday

Celebrating Chennai.. St Mary's church

It is only fitting that I resume this series today.. Why? Today marks the 375th birthday of Madras aka Chennai. This image I share was taken during the last weekend walk inside Fort St George.

It was taken at St Mary's Church which is located within the Fort's campus. 

The church was built back in 1680 mainly because those who lived inside the fort needed a place of worship. Earlier prayers were held in a random hall in the place. Only on March 25, 1678 did Governor Streynsham Master order work to commence on this church. Apparently it was Our Lady’s Day, which is the reason for the name- St Mary’s Church. 

The church is 80 feet long, 50 feet broad and has 3 aisles that are constructed entirely with  brick and stone.

Some interesting facts about the church: There are 104 tombstones, the oldest is that of Lord Pigot from 1777.  The original cemetry is where the  High Court stands today.  During the time when the French tok over the city, many of the slabs were brought over to the church and are found on the floor around the main chapel.  In 1782 when Hyder Ali invaded Madras, these very slabs were used to mount the guns around the Fort.  

Even today, prayers and worship happens in this church, though entry is restricted. We were not allowed to enter the premise, not even a few steps inside the gate, so here is an image of the entrance to the Church. 

 More to come in next post...............

If wishes were horses...

This was taken at Dakshin Chitra on ECR nearly a year or more ago. A lamp inside one of the model houses.. :-)

Submitting this for Wordless Wednesday theme by Chennai Bloggers Club

Celebrating Chennai..Wordless Wednesday... Life

Putting this post a day early. Why? Because it seems apt for the Wordless Wednesday theme from Chennai Bloggers Club.

This photograph was taken during the Chindatripet Photowalk..

Celebrating Chennai.... Grandeur

December of 2012 has been a month that had the most positives and a few negatives as well. The highest point was a bit of Self indulgence, something I've not done ever and something am not really comfortable doing... 

So, what did I do? I used the vouchers I won during the Indiblogger meet held in Oct'12.   I had won a 1N/2D stay and also had a Lunch for 2 at Madras Pavilion... Got back from Ooty, checked the vouchers, gasped upon reading they expire on 31st Dec, called and made reservations for 29th and off i went... 

ITC Grand Chola true to its name, is Grand. From the foyer to the rooms, the swimming pool to the lobby, everything is just grand. The little touches, the Veena, the Brahadeeswara temple like architecture, the majestic chandeliers all make it a magical experience. Wandering through the corridors, I allowed myself to float away to la la land, letting go of any inhibitions i had, yes, it did feel weird being there, feeling like a Queen, but i told myself that i had earned it and that helped soak in the experience.

This is the lobby on the floor my room was in, the 20th Floor, called EVA. And no, you cannot just hop into the elevator and get here.. You need access, either a room card or one of the staff to guide you.. A floor dedicated to Single women travellers. How cool is that?

The next morning while heading for breakfast, i watched a team of about 3guys put together this massive flower arrangement. They finished on one side of the staircase before moving over to the other. Phew...

Was fascinated by this piece on the center table near the Ottimo restaurant on the 1st floor. It was beautiful, elegant and artistic..

This is the new hotel in Chennai and looks like it is changing the hospitality industry.. Giving people a surreal experience, and altering the way we look at hotels and restaurants!!!

Celebrating Chennai... The waves

As the year draws to an end, let me leave you with this beautiful image from the city i call home- Chennai...

Me: What is the one place you want to go to when you come to Chennai/Madras?
Cousin [over the phone from Delhi]- The Beach

I rest my case!!

When she was here, one morning we all rose early[5am] and drove down to the beach, not just any beach, but The Marina Beach... Spent about 2hours walking along the shore, while some played in the water a bit before joining us... What a fun morning that was! And this is almost a routine everytime she visits home :D

Did you know that the Marina beach is the longest in the country? yes, it stretches for over 14kms.... and one has easy access to the water as well, unlike in other places where you cannot get your feet wet :)

These were fishing boats resting before the trip into the ocean. There were a few fishermen sorting out the fishing nets nearby. They had done one round of fishing early in the morning [3-4am] and will go again in a while... What a life!!

Happy New year! see you on the other side

Celebrating Chennai.. Valluvar Kottam

Dedicated to the famous poet Thiruvalluvar, the Valluvar Kottam [ a moument] was constructed in 1976. All the 133 chapters of the Thirukkural which include 1330 verses are inscribed on bas-relief in the front hall corridors.

The construction of Valluvar Kottam is like a temple chariot, and it is a replica of the temple chariot in Thiruvarur. The hall near the chariot can hold upto 4000 people and is today a location where quite a few fairs and exhibitions are held. 

Celebrating Chennai.. Ride or Repair

Clicked this image during the Chindatripet walk... Wondered if the auto was waiting for its driver or for the doors to open to be repaired...

Celebrating Chennai.... History in stone

Whilst i enjoy the winters in Delhi, roaming through the streets, engulfed by history, i share with you something from Chennai's history.... A man almost forgotten...

Kamarajar, the Chief Minister, the man who spread the value of Education [inspite of being uneducated]. He introduced millions of people to books, and also brought in the mid day meal system to motivate children to go to school. He was also awarded the Bharat Ratna [India's highest civilian honour] posthumously in 1976...

Even today, we remember him, for all that he did for the people! The Kamaraj Domestic Terminal in madras Airport is named after him, and so are several other buildings and roads...


This statue stands tall in the Marina Beach, amongst several others, each of whom have left their mark behind!!

Celebrating Chennai..Ashtalakshmi Temple

Thanks to a friend i found in the blogsville-V, i discovered this treasured temple in Besant Nagar in the city i call home. Am talking about the Ashtalakshmi temple situated in the shores of the Bay of Bengal, at the long stretch of Elliots Beach, beyond the Velankanni Church

The architecture at this temple is very unique. The Goddesses and deities are across four levels, the top most opening out to the ocean. As the name states, the Ashtalakshmi temple is home to Eight avatars of Lakshmi.

Santaana Lakshmi (bestower of offspring)
Vijayalakshmi (bestower of success),
Vidya Lakshmi (associated with learning & wisdom)
Gaja Laskhmi (bestower of overall prosperity)
Dhanalakshmi (Goddess of wealth)
On the ground floor is the main shrine for Aadhi Lakshmi,
Dhaanya Lakshmi (Goddess of food)
Dhairiya Lakshmi's (the Goddess of courage, strength & power)
 

There are narrow flight of stairs leading from one level to the other and it is almost like an adventure making the way to the top.... I was excited and eager to see what was in the next level...

Celebrating Chennai.. Spot it if you can

I carry my camera with me all the time. I dont have a DSLR, mine is a compact Sony Cybershot and am quite happy with it.. Duh, why am I telling you this now? I dont know!! So, couple of weeks back when i was heading out, I took the flyover on Usman Road and voila, what did i spot there, this amazing piece atop this ginormous building..

Here is the piece that caught my eye.. Let us see if you can guess where it is....

 

For those who are impatient, you can scroll down to see where i spotted this..

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It is the Pothees Building on Usman Road :-)  Did you know?  Have you seen it?

 

Unable to spot it? Well, look straight above the giant P, in that little shelf sits the Kamadhenu piece..

Celebrating Chennai.. The ITC Grand Chola

 

This is the new landmark of Chennai.. Identify it? Have you been here? Seen it? Driven past it? Well, if you are still lost, then it is about time you drove out towards Guindy... Stop near the SPIC building and look across the road at this grand building. It is the ITC Grand Chola, that stands tall, oozing with majestic and grandeur. 

I got an opportunity to visit and explore the place, enjoy their hospitality and spend almost an entire afternoon here thanks to Indiblogger. You can read about it here

Spread across 8 acres with over 600 rooms, the hotel redefines luxury and hospitality. There are a few chunks which are being built as i type this, a few additional features being incorporated, but it is sure to be one of a kind.... 

Celebrating Chennai.. Fort St George

Let us take a walk through history, a place that is quite the landmark- Fort St George... Established in 1653, it continues to remain an evidence to what happened eons ago and a reflection of the rich culture that is part of this beautiful city, Chennai. 

As you cross the small bridge, the first building on the right that greets you is the "Fort museum". Two floors showcasing objects that were used back in 1802, you will see everything from fine prints,a scale model of the fort and quite a collection of military memorabilia. Walking through the rooms, you will be engulfed in history and the time that was..

Celebrating Chennai, Post box

I love writing Letters, sending Greeting cards... Not only that but my postal cards and letters will have stickers, perfume, colour and be lively. I dont know where i got this trait from, probably my uncles - Still remember how they used to send me postcards from wherever they had gone, and i still have most of them. Even today, my uncle in USA sends New year greeting cards to all of us!

I love visiting the post office, picking up stamp, spending a few minutes analysing the stamp, struggling with my gluestick, wallet, phone, and what not as i seal the envelope and drop it in the box... 

I wonder how many people write, send each other notes. I was talking to a friend of mine who's sending a parcel to a loved one who is now across the ocean, and she mentioned that the person carrying it insisted on her sending a note along with it. :-) Teased my friend for being a silly non romantic for wanting to put a post it on the parcel, but she instead said - Nyaah, it was cos I was sending through someone that i dint attach a note... 

I still write letters and greeting cards for friends and family. Now with the newfound interest and membership on Postcrossing, am back to sending and receiving postcards to and from across the world.. It is good fun and am amazed at the number of people who've signed on seeing my updates and pictures :)

This is a post box that stood outside Hotel Dasaprakash on PH Road.. Wonder if it is still there..

Celebrating Chennai... Casino Theater

There are so many buildings that were part of my mom's life as they were growing up. One of those is Casino theater in Mount road... There were not one but 3 theaters along that single stretch of road- Casino., Gaiety and Chitra... Alas, today only Casino remains, the other two have been brought down and Chitra has become a factory while Gaiety is being transformed into a mall.. 

 

One of the early photowalks i attended began right here, and we were back here once again during a walk featured as part of the Chennai heritage... And again during the most recent Chindatripet Photowalk, i bid adieu to the group here... 

Have you seen any movies here? heard of any stories? Do share!!

Celebrating Chennai- Fresh catch

It was quite early in the morning and as we walked along Chindatripet, the stench of freshly caught fish hung in the air wherever we went. The lanes we turned into, the shops we visited, the temples we walked into, the smell followed us. 

As i looked around, i noticed the fish market was just a hop away, bustling with activity. Vans were going in and some were pulling out, vendors were walking out with baskets filled with different kinds of fish; some had already pulled out plastic sheets on the pavement and were sorting through the loot that would earn them their daily bread and butter, well, more like rice and sambar maybe.. And then, there was this guy standing near a bicycle, holding a fish that was nearly as tall as him. He stood grinning and beckoned us to come click. 

"Ithu innikku thaan pudichathu.... ithavida perisellam naan pathirukein"[this was caught today, and i have seen bigger ones] he boasted.

Hope he got a good price for the fish and his family enjoyed their sunday meals...

Celebrating Chennai... Waiting..

Hi

Just realised I had quite a few images taken around the city I call home- Chennai. Decided to start a series on the blog titled "Celebrating Chennai". Shall share a picture every Thursday!! :-)

Look fwd to comments and inputs!! 

Here is the 1st photograph. This was taken during the recent Photowalk around Chindatripet, near Egmore.. I had attended the Roof top Film fest and so had not got a second's rest, but managed to attend the photowalk, well, atleast 80% of it. 

As we walked along the narrow lanes in Chindatripet, there were so many houses tucked away amidst the shops and street hawker stalls. Many of them am sure were more than a few decade old, and some had a grill door that hid the main entrance and the house. This one particular house had a huge arch entrance, with a platform of sorts on both sides where people could sit on when waiting for a resident to come meet them. On this, i spotted an elderly lady sitting, staring into empty space. I looked at her, asked if i could take a photograph of her sitting there. She smiled [quite a sad smile] and said "Yes, eduthukko"  

When i asked her if she was generally hanging out on a sunday morning, she said she was waiting for her daughter in law to call her when her customary 2nd cup of coffee was ready... If i am inside, the children keep coming to me asking me to tell them stories, she does not like that you see.... Sigh.. felt bad... Just as i was grasping for words, i heard a voice come from within and the old lady slowly made her way to enjoy her cup of coffee.. 

Skywatch Friday- Aayi Mandapam, Pondicherry

I've lost count of the number of times i have visited this town, back in the days we used to do weekend trips, just drive down, stay with a friend, enjoy the weekend and head back to Chennai to face Monday. The most recent visit was last year- September, around my Birthday. 

I was back in this quaint French town called Pondicherry, 4hours from Chennai and a place that welcomed me with open arms every time i landed here.  Even though it was September, the sun was blazing down with glory, no consideration for us poor souls melting away here. 

Having decided to see more of Pondicherry and gain some insight into the architecture and history, i had signed up for an INTACH walk. Armed with a bottle of water, camera and thirsty soul i was ready, i walked towards the lobby to find Mr Ashok Pande waiting patiently.

 

 

Aayi Mandapam

  Two pillars within the park

We started off with a walk through the narrow lanes, most of which looked alike, with houses neatly stacked beside each other, some sporting name plates dating back to centuries gone by, while others had been restored and put to better use today. Whilst walking i mentioned the park that i kept crossing every time i went to the beach or to Mission street, it was almost like the park had to be met at every outing.  

Ashok said "worry not, we are heading there as we speak" and lo behold, there it was around the corner. It is a Government park, that was once open with no gates and through which cars could drive straight through. Now, there are iron gates that are kept shut, and cars will have to go around the park. As we walked in, i noticed the cobbled pathways and beautiful pillars. These pillars have all been brought in from ruins around the city, they looked right out of one of our temples. 

 

Aayi Mandapam from the other side, can you spot the cannon hidden amidst the plants? [bottom left]

The park is circular in shape, and standing proud right in the center was a Monument, an arch, one that was called "Aayi Mandapam". At first glance, it looked like a smaller simpler version of the Champs-Élysées[no no, not been to France, just seen enough movies to identify the landmark monument], but then upon close inspection i learnt that it has been built in the Greco-Roman architecture. The monument was erected during Napoleon III's reign [Emperor of France] . Situated right in front of the Raj Niwas, the residence of the Lieutenant Governor, the park is quite a majestic place.

When i probed further, Ashok narrated the interesting story behind the Aayi mandapam, that goes back to a  a 16th century courtesan called Aayi. Apparently, the then king was passing by her residence, and on seeing the candle flickering, he assumed it was a place of worship and walked in.  Upon realising his mistake, he begged for forgiveness and was ashamed of his action.  The lady, touched by his humbleness and she then brought down the home and in its place brought up a water reservoir.  Back in the days there was severe water scarcity in Pondicherry and it was the water from this reservoir that is said to have quenched the thirst of the Napoleon's men. When Napoleon heard the story, he took the decision to erect a monument as a tribute to Aayi and that is we know today as Aayi Mandapam or the Park Monument... 

Wow, that was quite a story. While i captured a few photographs of the place, i noticed 2 children running around the garden, with their mother screaming at them to come to her. There was another old couple sitting on the park bench, silently, as if words were no longer needed.. The park was brimming with action, and i walked around it towards the other exit looking forward to discovering more such hidden treasures in Pondicherry. 

For more beautiful skies, visit Skywatch Friday