Skywatch Friday..Jal Mahal Palace, Jaipur

It was a beautiful Sunday morning, the sun was shining bright but we were always on the lookout for the sudden downpour. Our past few days in Jaipur had proved that the weather was quite unpredictable, not that we are complaining. We quite loved the showers as they cooled the weather down.. This particular day we were on the road since 9am. We had just visited the Gaitore and were heading towards Nanhargarh fort and had plans of exploring few other places around. On the way, we spotted the Jal Mahal Palace on our right. It was beautiful. 

A palace of sorts in the middle of the large water body surrounded by nothing but water, mountains and emptiness. Wow. Our cab driver told us this was once the summer palace of the Raja as the main palace would get very hot. 

Jal Mahal (literally translates to "Water Palace") sits majestically in the middle of the Mansagar Lake. The palace and the lake around it went through a renovation sometime in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II of Amber. He also made the palace bigger, by adding more rooms and halls. Traditional boat-makers from Vrindavan were brought in to craft the Rajput style wooden boats. 

As I look oh yonder, all I see are the vast Aravalli hills dotted with temples and forts and on the other side is the bustling city of Jaipur. When the renovation took place, the lake went through the biggest transformation. The drains were all diverted, about 1-2 million tonnes of toxic sludge was removed, new eco system was created and local vegetation & fish were introduced back into the waters.  The wetlands around also welcome migratory birds every year. 

Since it was a Sunday, the whole world and sundry were there. There were children running around, street performers who were being chased away by cops, hawkers selling camel leather products and little trinkets and then ofcourse the men standing with a small table selling jhal muri.. The entire place was alive and buzzing... It was nice, but I did wish for some peace and quiet... 

Suddenly we heard a commotion and noticed that all the street hawkers were being asked to leave by the cops! They were all rushing to pack their stuff, and leave the area before the Cops got to them.But there was no sign of the crowd moving away from there. In fact, we saw quite a few go near the edge of the water and throw chips and biscuits and sev at the fish... We left there wondering what a lavish life the Royal must have led back in the days!! 

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Krishnapuram Palace, Kayamkulam

The four of us decided to do a holiday a year, and the destination for this year was Kerala. The place was finalised, resort was booked, and train tickets were on their way. We were headed to Allepey. After spending 2 days soaking in the sun and enjoying a long relaxing houseboat ride, we decided to head out and explore the town around. We hailed a cab and the first stop was going to be at Krishnapuram Palace in Kayamkulam, 47 km from Alappey.. 

This palace is said to be a replica of the Padmanabapuram palace, Trivandrum. Situated in Kayamkulam near Allepey, we were told this palace was built in the 18th century by Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma  of the Travancore kingdom. The architecture is typical of Kerala, the gabled roof, narrow corridors, rows of windows and nearly all rooms are interconnected.  There is also a temple nearby, the Krishnaswamy Temple at Krishnapuram where the King used to go say his daily prayers and where special festivals were celebrated.  It was built quite small, and later expansions were done by Ayyappan Mathsnada Pillai. 

What we see today is a three storied structure within the complex, which is after the renovations done  in the 1950s by the Archaeological Department of Kerala. As we wandered the vast palace, we were in awe of the small windows, narrow corridors and how natural light streamed in from every corner. There was also a spot where a few steps led to a door, which we learnt was to the pond and held an underground escape route to the outside roads. 

There are quite a few art pieces adorning the walls, the one that caught our eye was the  mural painting titled “Gajendra Moksham” . It is 154 square feet in size, the largest of such a kind in Kerala. There was also a double edged Kayamkulam Vaal (sword) on display within the palace museum. here.  Through one particular window we got a full view of the pond outside where I spotted a lone turtle happily swimming around. The beauty of the palace was the cool temperature across the rooms and levels. The underground pond is said to have provided natural air conditioning to the place.  

The man in charge told us that during Onam the place was known to come alive with festivities, feast and the Royal family filling all the rooms. As we made our way out, we stopped to admire the neatly manicured gardens and the giant buddha sitting under a canopy and wondered what the story behind this statue was.

 If you are visiting this part of Kerala, you should consider staying at Club Mahindra’s Property in Munnar, which is just about 3 hours away.

This post was featured on Club Mahindra's blog recently!

Skywatch Friday... Going back in time

There we were in the crowded area in Hyderabad, Charminar. After walking around the monument, we spent about half an hour in the Choodi Bazaar [ my friend even convinced me to buy a few pairs of glass bangles, some that wore with the help of moisturiser]. Proud of herself, we walked away from the jam packed alley towards the car park but not before picking up a glass of chai and some boiled peanuts from a street side vendor. She then suggested we visit Chowmahalla Palace, which was nearby. 

The place looked deserted, we parked her car and made our way to the gate. The watchman said the place was open and we were free to roam. The first step into the gates and all I saw were open spaces, lush gardens, and a huge palace of sorts at the very end of the road. It was almost beyond eye range. We walked towards the side column of buildings and noticed it was a row of rooms that were probably used by either soldiers to stay in or as storage rooms. Most of them were open, but empty. And then there was the garden in the middle with a clean water way. There were also a few fountains, and friend mentioned they turned on the lights and fountains later in the evening. Soon, we spotted a gentleman strolling and went over to say hello. Turns out, he was part of the group that was maintaining the place. He took us under his wing and promptly showed us around the palace. 

He explained that the palace building in the front was just one of the many. It housed the Durbar hall, a majestic room with a throne flanked by beautiful chandeliers. The lights came on in a few minutes and it looked like we were standing in a room made of gold. Similarly, every corridor, every pillar, every chandelier looked so grand. I was quite curious to know how they were maintained, they looked good as new. He told us they were cleaned regularly, and time to time were polished as well.  

The palace also called Chowmahallat (meaning 4 Palaces) belonged to the Nizams of Hyderabad. It was once the seat of Asaf Jahi dynasty and the official home of the Nizam. When I probed on the story behind the name, he went on to explain that in Persian language, Chahar meant 4 while in Arabic Mahalat meant palaces, and therefore the name Chowmahallat or four palaces. As we were walking out of the building, he shared that the palace was once spread across 45acres but today only 14acres belonged to the palace.

Submitting this for Skywatch Friday and for Flower Friday theme by Chennai Bloggers Club [why? the chandelier reminds me of a flower :D] 

The title made me smile- why? Cos the post is about going back in time with respect to two things- 1. it is about a place soaked in history and 2. it brought back memories of my hydie visit [which was back in 2006 and since then, every time I plan a trip since then, it has fallen flat on my face]

Padmanabhapuram Palace, Kerala

The other day a bunch of us were talking about travel, and the conversation steered towards Kerala. All of us were sharing our experiences to different destinations and finally we all ended up discussing the Padmanabhapuram Palace. Iit is about 50kms from Trivandrum, infact closer to Nagercoil. So, anyways, the meet ended and as I was heading back home, my thoughts lingered in the palace. The first thing that comes to my mind is the trip we took through Dad's office- The India cements when we were in Tirunelveli and the next connect to this palace is of Varusham 16. 

Back in the days when we lived in Tirunelveli, we used to do a trip every 6months or so, through dad's office. It was the office picnic of sorts. The very 1st one i remember distinctly was to Thiruparappu falls and areas around it. The next time it was Trivandrum- the Palace, manimuthar falls, papanasam, mundanthurai and places around. These weere fun mainly cos there was another family we were quite close to and they would also be travelling with us. I was the only kid [yes, this was way before my sister came into this world and the other family had their son]

Ok, coming back to the office picnic trips, the bus drew to a halt outside the Padmanabhapuram Palace, and we were all told to hop out, explore and be back within 2-3 hours. I wondered "Wow, what is there in this old place that is going to take us that long to explore?" Boy, was I wrong! It was magical, and for a kid who has never seen a palace of any kind, this house was palatial to say the least. So many rooms, and each one inter connected, narrow pathways, the beautiful wooden frames running through the exterior of the house, a huge hall with seats all around [resembling a royal durbar] called manthrasala, but the one thing  that had me zapped were the teeny tiny entrances and staircases. 

The entrance of this palace is called as Poomukham, which leads to an ancient door of palace.  There was a brass lamp with a knight on a horse hanging there. Another aspect that I remember [thanks to a recent visit to the palace] is the Thai Kottaram with the Kannithoonu (a pillar made with wood from jackfruit tree with beautiful intricate floral designs). Rumour has it there is a tunnel connecting the Thaikottaram with Charottukkottaram, and it was used extensively during days of war. 

No the steps were tiny, it was the archways and entrances that were small. It was almost like the people who lived here were no taller than 3 ft in height[you beg to differ?]. The staircases were almost vertical, a straight climb upwards. Sheesh, it was nightmarish, especially since I was tall, even back then [all of 11yrs old studying in 6th std]. I was fascinated with the walls and all the paintings on it [made using vegetable dye]. And then there was the majestic King size bed- a wooden cot made up of 64 different pieces of wood which are of medicinal quality. The Queen's dressing room nearby had a another cot, except this was made of stone. 

As we finally made our way downstairs out to the garden, I spotted the mandapam[resembling a temple hall]. If you've seen Varusham 16, you will know what I am talking about. Called the Navarathri Mandapam, all the pillars here are made with stones and it is the only place in the palace made of stones. This place was used for cultural performances only and audience were members of the Royal family only, outsiders were not allowed.  There is also a clock tower within the palace grounds which is over 300yrs old, but still works perfect. 

I would love to do another trip and explore the palace some more. Am sure I would notice things I dint the last time around... 

These photographs were taken on dad's old film camera and edited wee bit... Wish there were more, wish I had been more interested in photography/travel back then.. But then heck, I aint complaining!! :)

You can read more about the Palace

http://enchantingkerala.org/kerala-monuments/padmanabhapuram-palace.php
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Padmanabhapuram_Palace
http://www.kerala-tourism.org/kerala-monuments/padmanabhapuram-palace.html

Mysore, all lit up for Dussehra

It was either the last day of somewhere near the last day when we landed in Mysore from Coorg. The entire city was abuzz with activities- there were people thronging street corners, vendors with stalls on every footpath and traffic that was moving, rather inching at snail's pace. We had driven down from Coorg, and were going to spend a night in Mysore before heading back to Bangalore and then to Chennai. 

One of my friends mentioned that the Palace looks gorgeous in the evening, all lit up and majestic. Towards 7pm, we drove out to meet a friend & her daughter, and then dragged them along to go see the Palace in all its glory. There was so much traffic, all we managed was a few minutes from the car. Friend who was driving asked if we would like to head up the Chamundi Hills and maybe spend some time up there getting a glimpse of the city below. 

 

 The city resembled the skies on a night when it was filled with stars. It was lit up, and there were lights everywhere. The view point was near empty, and so we had peace and quiet as we stood there gazing at the city below.. Far away from all the noise and crowd, we were lost in our own worlds. Today, as i remember that day nearly 4yrs ago, the memories come flooding.... The fun we had, the friend i made and the city that i had not visited in a few decades welcoming me with open arms... 

I hope to be in Mysore atleast once to witness the entire Dussehra celebrations!! 

 

Onam with colours...

The one thing i associate with Onam are flowers, i see elaborate kolams made with different flowers for days in advance. We have had Malayali neighbours, i have had friends and colleagues, and apaprently this kolam keeps expanding everyday.. they add a layer to it till the final Onam day. How wonderful is that..

Another speciality of Onam is the Onam Sadhya...The elaborate vegetarian feast.. A few years ago, 2 friends and i enjoyed a Sadhya at Ente Keralam... Watching people all decked up in white and gold saree, the beautiful ornament that is placed on the elephant's front, along the trunk... all of this shows how strong and vibrant their culture is.

It has been a few months since i visited Kerala, and today, on Onam I thought i'll write a post showcasing all the places and sights i have seen and enjoyed in Kerala...

 Padmanaba Swamy temple, Trivandrum

 Varkala Beach, Varkala

The Dutch Cemetry, Fort Kochi

Wishing everyone a very Happy Onam!!

Amidst the Pink walls of Jaipur

It was hot, and no, it was not summer. It was October, and it was hot.. Yes i know i said it before, but i want you to understand how hot it really was. We had just arrived at Jaipur and all we could think off was "where can i get some cold water, or maybe an ice cream.. Damn, its hot". We were 4 of us, actually 5, if you count the nincompoop we had for a driver, a young brat who was supposed to be driving us around, but who ended up putting his legs up [no, i kid you not] on the dashboard and going off to sleep, with the car parked in the middle of nowhere. When one of us woke up from our slumber, we would notice this, ask him to move and then the stranger who became a friend would take over the steering wheel.

Us: Kya hua bhaiiya? [what happened brother]

Him: Kuch nahin madam, bas tired hoon, neend aa rahi hain [Nothing happened ma'am, just tired and feeling sleepy] aap so jao [ you go back to sleep]

Us: Arre, aise kaise? Aap ko humein bhatana chahiye na.. accident ho jaati tho [ OMG, how can you say that? you should have told us right, what if we had met with an accident or something?]

Him: Nahin madam, kuch nahin hoga, mein ek ghanta rest letha hoon, phir vapas hum nikhlenge [ nothing of that sort will happen ma'am. i'll sleep for an hour and then we will be back on the road]

Us: Nahin nahin, says R .. aap ithar aao, sojao, mein ghadi chalatha hoon [ Nothing doing says R, you move over and sleep in my seat, i shall drive] 

And from Delhi, it seemed like a long drive, maybe cos we were all exhausted already- I had landed in Delhi that evening, the others, well 2 of them - 1 had landed that noon from Bombay and the other around same time from Bangalore. We had attended a party, where we drank, sang, made a fool of ourselves, got Mehndi done, danced some more, laughed away to glory [having no clues why we were laughing] and then piled into a car and hit the road with the stranger/friend.. Ah, those good 'ol days...

Let me not digress anymore... We asked the driver to head straight to the Hawa Mahal, parked the car and made our way to the nearest store for some water or something cold. We discovered a Kulfi store, and each of us devoured 2 each. The guy at the store was making nearly 100 in each batch, that sold within minutes. Some had nuts, some had elaichi, while others were plain kulfi. Quite a sight to see... 

"Built in 1979 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh,, the "Palace of winds" was designed by Lal Chand Ustad in the form of the crown of Lord Krishna. The unique 5 storey exterior resembles a honeycomb  and is made up of  953 small windows called jharokhas decorated with intricate lattice work.

Entirely built of bright Pink and Red sandstone, the palace is a landmark in Jaipur, renowned for the rich architecture and style. 
 

 

We walked around the place, listening to the tales narrated by a guide to a group of foreigners, and made our way to the top, from where the entire city seemed to be visible. Time stood still until we suddenly realised the harsh evening sun was beating down on us and made our way out. 

 

The city was bustling with visitors and locals, there were construction workers busy with the repair work on one section of the Hawa Mahal. 

Skywatch Friday Cones in the sky

During our brief visit to Kochi, we travelled to a nearby town called Thirupunithura, where we discovered an entire maze of lanes filled with palaces.. Some of them were simply called Palace 1, Palace 13, while others had names- Lakshmi Thopu Palace and Bungalow Palace. As we walked around, while trying to capture a sneak peek into the palaces, i managed to see only the roofs.. They looked like Cones against the sky... 

The palaces were not majestic or grand, but were palatial houses. Some of which have become wedding halls, while others are occupied by descendants from the Royal families...We see swanky cars, kids clad in T shirts and jeans running about, and modern life seems to have taken over these traditional palaces.... 

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[Skywatch Friday] Reflections

During my recent holiday , we drove down from Allepey to the Krishnapuram Palace in Kayamkulam. This palace is said to be a replica of the Padmanabapuram palace, Trivandrum.. The palace pond had me captive.. Crystal clear waters and a lone turtle happily swimming about ... 

The Palace is a grand reflection of the Kerala style of architecture - complete with gabled roofs, narrow corridors and dormer windows. 


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